Re: My 62 Lincoln Continental
Posted: Sun 12. Jun 2011, 16:46
Nice work. Purring like a kitten
Not that I'm aware of. Usually after the car has been parked for a longer period, the lifters tend to clatter in the first couple of minutes until they pump up to full operational status. That's normal and not a big deal. If you hear a persisting clatter that doesn't seem to disappear after a prolonged while, then one or more lifters might have been contaminated w. engine slug or some kind of debris in the system. That's not uncommon and not a big deal either, but you'll have to replace them su##ers. I recommend to replace them all 16.NicSanford wrote:Is there any quick and easy way to reduce the noise without getting into the motor for now?Theo wrote:But say, am I right hearing a lifter noise?
Well, yes...and maybe not. I think it depends on what kind of sound it is and where it occurs. If you hear that sound while sitting in the car w. all doors closed or while driving then this might be a sign of a serious vacuum leak with a possibly fatal malfunction of the brake booster. You're more likely going to be able to apply some manual power on the brake pedal, but you'll really feel a great difference in how much pressure you'll have to use and how weak the braking power will be at the same time. This is a dangerous situation. Currently I'm probably in the same boat. I'll have to start my T-Bird after it has been sitting for a couple of years. The booster visually looks bad although it had been replaced w. a rebuilt one a few years ago. The last time I drove the car, I had exactly the problem I'm describing. It sometimes worked and sometimes not with a hearable air bleed noise when it didn't.keithol wrote:.........The sound you are hearing is normal, and a good sign. The system uses vacuum from the engine to assist you to apply the brake. When you pump your brake pedal the large diaphragm acts like a pump and pumps air into the vacuum lines...........
keithol, you're right on the money. To make Nic understand about air in the brake lines I'd like to add that once you open the air bleed at the brake cylinder during the bleed procedure, air is not always going to escape immediately. In most cases there will be fluid to come out first. You'll have to pump the pedal quite often to make sure to flush all air pockets within the system. Once you see clean fresh brake fluid bleeding into your can you're done.keithol wrote:There are no cylinders in the brake booster ,I would not mess with the booster until you get the hydraulic system bled out and try it out. I see from the reference picture it is a piston type booster, but all it does is help you push the pedal with the engine running. It has nothing to do with the hydraulics of the brakes.The master cylinder could very well have a problem,however. Their are several ways to bleed brakes ,but the old messy standby is to have someone pump the brake pedal several times ,then hold it down while you loosen the bleed valve at the wheel cylinder, preferably starting at the furthest one, then close the valve before the pedal is released. At first all you will get is air,so you may have to repeat this step several times at each wheel before you get clear fluid with no air bubbles coming out. Make sure the pedal is not released while the valve is open or air will be drawn in, and make sure the reservoir never goes empty ! If you get no fluid by this method loosen the brake line at the master cylinder and see if you can get fluid to pump out there, if not the master cylinder is at fault and should be replaced . If you get fluid ,try the wheel cylinder again,you may just have awakened the system, or you may have plugged brake lines or hoses. Best of luck !
Haven't gotten that far yet. I bought the car with bad brakes, and the first time I tried them is when I noticed the vacuum leak. I have found that the leak is coming from an output that's supposed to connect to the vacuum powered door locks, and some other internal vacuum powered system. Figure for now I'll just bypass those or clamp them down so everything else works. Turns out just the vacuum system used for the power door locks is pretty complicated, or maybe just too complicated for me. I'll figure it out though...Theo wrote:Nic, do you have to apply extra pressure on the pedal w. weak braking power?