Distributor Advance and Pinging & Overheating
Posted: Sun 27. Apr 2014, 16:17
Ok, I posted this in the Lincoln forum too, so sorry to anyone who reads both...
to make a long story short, I've been fighting pinging (and running hot) on my 63 LCC for like the last 7 years. This pinging only happens on the freeway, and especially if the freeway has any incline at all. I have rebuilt or replaced EVERY single part on the car, so I've been stumped. I finally figured it out, and it is timing related. Here is the issue:
I've had the distributer "re-curved" so that it only has 8 degrees of mechanical advance. If I disconnect the vacuum advance and set the initial timing at 5 degrees, I can rev up the engine and watch the timing advance to a total of 13 degrees. After some test and tuning, that is my optimal setting (don't forget the best pump gas in California is basically toilet-swill). At that setting I not longer have pinging or overheating. Now... if I hook up the vacuum advance, the pining and overheating immediately returns. I'm running an Edelbrock 1406 that I've recalibrated not to run so lean, and I'm sure I'm connected to the "ported" vacuum source. There is no vacuum advance at idle, and none at WOT, but at cruising speed the vacuum advance it through the roof. My total timing w/o vacuum advance is 13, but with the vacuum hooked up it shoots past 30 degrees while cruising. The problem is that with the torq of the 430, the ending is in cruising mode pulling a load up a hill, so my timing advance is off the charts causing pinging.
The vacuum advance can that I'm using is an aftermarket one that is adjustable by inserting an allen head wrench in the hole. I've tried adjusting it all the way down to where there is no further adjustment, and the vacuum advance is still off the charts...
So here are my questions:
1) I'm just planning to run without the vacuum advance. It runs great, and the vacuum advance was originally designed for fuel economy, so is it really needed? If I'm getting 13 mpg instead of 14 mpg on a car that will see 3000-4000 miles per year, do I care? Is there any real problem with running without the vacuum advance?
2) Even if I can run without the vacuum advance, I'd still like to know if I can get it working right. So on those adjustable vacuum advance cans, if I turn the screw in, shouldn't that limit the amount of vacuum advance? Maybe I've got a bad (or incorrect) vacuum advance... are there different vacuum advance cans, or are they just a generic one-size-fits-all?
Thanks
to make a long story short, I've been fighting pinging (and running hot) on my 63 LCC for like the last 7 years. This pinging only happens on the freeway, and especially if the freeway has any incline at all. I have rebuilt or replaced EVERY single part on the car, so I've been stumped. I finally figured it out, and it is timing related. Here is the issue:
I've had the distributer "re-curved" so that it only has 8 degrees of mechanical advance. If I disconnect the vacuum advance and set the initial timing at 5 degrees, I can rev up the engine and watch the timing advance to a total of 13 degrees. After some test and tuning, that is my optimal setting (don't forget the best pump gas in California is basically toilet-swill). At that setting I not longer have pinging or overheating. Now... if I hook up the vacuum advance, the pining and overheating immediately returns. I'm running an Edelbrock 1406 that I've recalibrated not to run so lean, and I'm sure I'm connected to the "ported" vacuum source. There is no vacuum advance at idle, and none at WOT, but at cruising speed the vacuum advance it through the roof. My total timing w/o vacuum advance is 13, but with the vacuum hooked up it shoots past 30 degrees while cruising. The problem is that with the torq of the 430, the ending is in cruising mode pulling a load up a hill, so my timing advance is off the charts causing pinging.
The vacuum advance can that I'm using is an aftermarket one that is adjustable by inserting an allen head wrench in the hole. I've tried adjusting it all the way down to where there is no further adjustment, and the vacuum advance is still off the charts...
So here are my questions:
1) I'm just planning to run without the vacuum advance. It runs great, and the vacuum advance was originally designed for fuel economy, so is it really needed? If I'm getting 13 mpg instead of 14 mpg on a car that will see 3000-4000 miles per year, do I care? Is there any real problem with running without the vacuum advance?
2) Even if I can run without the vacuum advance, I'd still like to know if I can get it working right. So on those adjustable vacuum advance cans, if I turn the screw in, shouldn't that limit the amount of vacuum advance? Maybe I've got a bad (or incorrect) vacuum advance... are there different vacuum advance cans, or are they just a generic one-size-fits-all?
Thanks