Engine rebuld advice

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buddy67lincoln
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Re: Engine rebuld advice

Post by buddy67lincoln » Wed 7. Jan 2009, 08:54

Theo wrote:You're welcome.
Keep us updated with your project.
I will. Right now I am headed to garage to get some measurements for the carb pad heights KULTULZ and WebyFord wanted. I will post it later on today.
John Lyman
1964 Continental Convertible (actually working on this one!)
1967 Continental Coupe (bucket of rust)
1966 Continental Coupe (mild custom some day???)
1967 Continental 4 door (30,000 miles, part car)
1967 Continental 4 door (scrapped)

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buddy67lincoln
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Re: Engine rebuld advice

Post by buddy67lincoln » Wed 7. Jan 2009, 20:56

KULTULZ wrote:This roller cam you have. Is it one of the old ISKYS from the early MEL? Cam bearing size and cam drive was changed in 1961 and may present a problem.
It is an ISKY RR2 made by Brian Estrada in NM. I was told it will work and all I need is the bronze gear of course or his MSD distributor and the gear.

Here is the results of my spark plugs. They were replaced so this is only 2 miles of driving illegally down the street and a lot of time sitting at idle in the driveway. Lots of black crystals so it must be oil. I read the 1967 Service Manual so it could be rings I suppose??? These are 1-4 cylinder spark plugs. Let me know what you think. Thanks
Attachments
cyl1sp.jpg
Cylinder 1
cyl2sp.jpg
Cylinder 2
cyl3sp.jpg
Cylinder 3
cyl4sp.jpg
Cylinder 4
John Lyman
1964 Continental Convertible (actually working on this one!)
1967 Continental Coupe (bucket of rust)
1966 Continental Coupe (mild custom some day???)
1967 Continental 4 door (30,000 miles, part car)
1967 Continental 4 door (scrapped)

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Theo
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Re: Engine rebuld advice

Post by Theo » Wed 7. Jan 2009, 22:25

#2 looks like being exposed to a lean mixture, the rest looks like either too fat mixture or burning oil. Both conditions might be the case too. #3 and #4 look smeared with oil in the thread.
I'm not an expert with plugfs and it's hard to diagnose while being distant.
Best regards
Theo
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buddy67lincoln
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Re: Engine rebuld advice

Post by buddy67lincoln » Wed 7. Jan 2009, 22:29

Theo wrote:#2 looks like being exposed to a lean mixture, the rest looks like either too fat mixture or burning oil. Both conditions might be the case too. #3 and #4 look smeared with oil in the thread.
I'm not an expert with plugfs and it's hard to diagnose while being distant.
Not a problem. I will figure it out through a friend who is a better mechanic than I am. I just wanted to post what I found. There is oil on the threads like you mentioned especially on #4. Can't wait to pull the engine out and see whats going on in there. Thanks for the help
John Lyman
1964 Continental Convertible (actually working on this one!)
1967 Continental Coupe (bucket of rust)
1966 Continental Coupe (mild custom some day???)
1967 Continental 4 door (30,000 miles, part car)
1967 Continental 4 door (scrapped)

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Re: Engine rebuld advice

Post by Theo » Wed 7. Jan 2009, 22:44

buddy67lincoln wrote:Thanks for the help
de nada
Best regards
Theo
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bestrada11
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Re: Engine rebuld advice

Post by bestrada11 » Wed 18. Mar 2009, 22:44

hey john sounds like you are at a y in the road and dont know whether a right or left is best. with the extent you have gone through so far as in getting the parts you have i would not bother doing it if its not going to be full on with the rebuild.. if you are wanting to just get it running nice and have a step forward and give you a long lasting usable upgrade from which to build your monster from is pull the heads have them completly done (port, polish, gasket match, seats guides and new valves and all that) dont put the cam in yet dont even bother with that till you decide to do the short block and when you do the head job is already done and will make a differance now and set you up for the future. then do the pistons have them coated do the cam and DO BEEPS OILING SYSTEM UPGRADE!!!!!!!! this is what i suggest..... sorry ive been such a flake and impossible to get ahold of im just tring to finalize a huge realestate deal for my new location and have been spread so thin im transparent (hahhaha) OR JUST TAKE THE FINAL JUMP THAN DO IT BIG AND DO IT RIGHT OR NOT AT ALL BECAUSE YOU HAVE GATHERED SOME PARTS THAT DESERVE NOTHING LESS!!!!!!! OH AND BY THE WAY IVE GOT AN OPPORTUNITY TO FINISH THE GEAR DRIVE BUT I NEED SOMEONE TO HELP ME WITH THE FOLLOWING:
1. SEND ME BOTH STOCK GEARS CAM AND CRANK PREFERABLY NEW ONES (NOT USED) OR AT LEAST USED NEW STYLE(NO NYLON)
2 GIVE ME AN EXACT MEASURANCE OF CENTER TO CENTER WITHIN <.003 TOLERANCE
3 AND IN ORDER TO MAKE THIS HAPPEN I WOULD NEED ALL THIS NEXT DAY AIRED TO ME SO I HAVE AM DELIVERY ON FRI MORNING 3-20 WHO EVER CAN DO THIS (ALL 3 STEPS) WILL BE BUYING A SET FOR EXACTLY WHAT IT COSTS AND PROOF OF ALL THE COSTS PROVIDED TO THIS LUCKY INDIVIDUAL,

IVE POSTED THIS ON ANOTHER PAGE HERE ON THIS SITE BUT HAVENT HAD ANY BITES BUT WE WILL SEE WHAT HAPPENS

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Re: Engine rebuld advice

Post by bestrada11 » Wed 18. Mar 2009, 22:53

buddy67lincoln wrote:
KULTULZ wrote:This roller cam you have. Is it one of the old ISKYS from the early MEL? Cam bearing size and cam drive was changed in 1961 and may present a problem.
It is an ISKY RR2 made by Brian Estrada in NM. I was told it will work and all I need is the bronze gear of course or his MSD distributor and the gear.

Here is the results of my spark plugs. They were replaced so this is only 2 miles of driving illegally down the street and a lot of time sitting at idle in the driveway. Lots of black crystals so it must be oil. I read the 1967 Service Manual so it could be rings I suppose??? These are 1-4 cylinder spark plugs. Let me know what you think. Thanks

ALSO IM NOT SURE WHICH CAM I SOLD YOU BUT I DID NOT MAKE RR2'S I HAD RR2'S FOR SALE AND I ALSO CUSTOM GROUND BLANKS TO BE SIMILAR TO RR2-RR3

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Re: Engine rebuld advice

Post by KULTULZ » Wed 18. Mar 2009, 23:48

They appear to be fuel fouled to me- too rich of a mixture or the mixture not being burnt fully-

http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/engine/plugs.html

Oil on the plug threads is usually from an oil leak such as rocker covers.

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buddy67lincoln
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Re: Engine rebuld advice

Post by buddy67lincoln » Thu 19. Mar 2009, 04:30

bestrada11 wrote:hey john sounds like you are at a y in the road and dont know whether a right or left is best. with the extent you have gone through so far as in getting the parts you have i would not bother doing it if its not going to be full on with the rebuild.. if you are wanting to just get it running nice and have a step forward and give you a long lasting usable upgrade from which to build your monster from is pull the heads have them completly done (port, polish, gasket match, seats guides and new valves and all that) dont put the cam in yet dont even bother with that till you decide to do the short block and when you do the head job is already done and will make a differance now and set you up for the future. then do the pistons have them coated do the cam and DO BEEPS OILING SYSTEM UPGRADE!!!!!!!! this is what i suggest..... sorry ive been such a flake and impossible to get ahold of im just tring to finalize a huge realestate deal for my new location and have been spread so thin im transparent (hahhaha) OR JUST TAKE THE FINAL JUMP THAN DO IT BIG AND DO IT RIGHT OR NOT AT ALL BECAUSE YOU HAVE GATHERED SOME PARTS THAT DESERVE NOTHING LESS!!!!!!! OH AND BY THE WAY IVE GOT AN OPPORTUNITY TO FINISH THE GEAR DRIVE BUT I NEED SOMEONE TO HELP ME WITH THE FOLLOWING:
1. SEND ME BOTH STOCK GEARS CAM AND CRANK PREFERABLY NEW ONES (NOT USED) OR AT LEAST USED NEW STYLE(NO NYLON)
2 GIVE ME AN EXACT MEASURANCE OF CENTER TO CENTER WITHIN <.003 TOLERANCE
3 AND IN ORDER TO MAKE THIS HAPPEN I WOULD NEED ALL THIS NEXT DAY AIRED TO ME SO I HAVE AM DELIVERY ON FRI MORNING 3-20 WHO EVER CAN DO THIS (ALL 3 STEPS) WILL BE BUYING A SET FOR EXACTLY WHAT IT COSTS AND PROOF OF ALL THE COSTS PROVIDED TO THIS LUCKY INDIVIDUAL,

IVE POSTED THIS ON ANOTHER PAGE HERE ON THIS SITE BUT HAVENT HAD ANY BITES BUT WE WILL SEE WHAT HAPPENS
Brian, thanks for the help as always! I really need sent in the right direction with this and any help from the pros is great. I wish I could help wit the parts and measurements. I have a 30,000 mile 462 taken apart but not down to the crank just yet. I could try to work on that but you said used is not good. I have the gears on another 462 and maybe even the one that was taken apart. I found the car apart so I have to go through the trunk to look for the gears. They might be in nicer shape. As for measuring I can try with some caliper instruments, use a nice ruler, and compare the results but you might want to suggest the best way to get it measured and I can try that. Wish I would have known sooner. I just started back to work 10 hours a day so far but I will try. Please get back to me to let me know if the crank and cam will work with 30,000 miles on them.
John Lyman
1964 Continental Convertible (actually working on this one!)
1967 Continental Coupe (bucket of rust)
1966 Continental Coupe (mild custom some day???)
1967 Continental 4 door (30,000 miles, part car)
1967 Continental 4 door (scrapped)

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