Updated 9/02/2017 Rev D
Updated 5/27/2020 Rev E Add information up to 01 Jan 1963 Fuel pump push rods. Add Fuel Pump Interchange List
Updated 6/13/2021 Added Push Rod Photo
Updated 3/29/2023 add 33036 fuel filter
Updated 4/10/2024 add Alternative fuel filters
Be advised that the 58/60 are A/C TWO PORT PUMPS. The pump used on the Lincoln SPECIFIC 430 (61/65) and 462 (66/68) are THREE-PORT. CARTER was the supplier on the THREE PORTS.
An NOS pump might appear to be in working order but rest assured it is NOT. It must be rebuilt with fresh components. The fuel pressure needs to be 4.5 to 6.5 psi.
There are many reasons for a decrease in pump performance including the following:
• Leaking diaphragm
• Leaking one-way valve
• Leaking fitting
• Cracked housing
• Broken or worn linkage
Shown here is a typical rebuild kit for the AC 4441 Pump
Lets look at the pump itself. This view would be the drivers side
This would be the Passenger side view.
Start Dis-Assembly by removing the 2 screws that hold the lid in place.
Don't forget to carefully examine each piece. Look closely at this casting . Do you see where the fitting screws into? (Click on the picture to enlarge)
This NOS pump is not road ready!
Next: Remove the 10 screws that hold the vale body in place. The poppet valves can be knocked out with a medium sized screw driver or punch and a small hammer. Be careful not to damage the casting.
Notice the small gasket rings. (They are supplied in the kit) Be sure to install the new ones when re-assembling.
You can also see where the valve on the right was staked to the casting in 4 locations...
Himmmmmmm. Ok... Now what ?
With a sharp carbide drill bit drill down just deep enough to relieve the "rolled over" materiel.and knock out the clevis pin. Note the washer. Make sure you replace it! (Supplied in the kit)
There's a surprise inside so be careful. Press the diaphragm down so the spring cant pop out when you remove the clevis pin. Take note of the assembly sequence. Also, notice the seal and copper ring pressed into the housing base. When the diaphragm leaks this seal helps to keep fuel from flooding the crank case.
I placed an additional lever in the picture so you can see how it hooks on to the diaphragm and interfaces with the pivot arm.
Look at the two pictures below...look carefully at this professionally rebuilt unit (from the New England Area) .... I personally purchased this pump from a pro shop. From day one it was nothing but trouble. If you look carefully at the first one you can see that the casting is actually arched between the screws. This is caused by over tightening the screws. The other reason is the fact that someone used a belt sander to make the two casting halves flush with one another. This will weaken the casting. If you see this arched condition with your pump or the half's do not mate flush use another casting. When the casting do not mate flush to one another this can cause hard starts (sucking air). In the second photo fuel is leaking after warm up. This pump has been destroyed by the re-builder. Its trash.
In the following picture. do you see anything wrong? Where did the metal filings come from? Notice the casting material rolled over and still clinging to the casting. I think I would make use of some 400 grit wet / dry cloth and the kitchen counter top (a clean flat surface) NOT A BELT SANDER! Again the re-builder thinks he knows better. I beg to differ. When replacing the poppet valves Make sure the fiber washers are in the kit. Place the fiber washer in first. Press in the valve. Be sure to orient it in the proper direction. you can use a small amount of Loctite Thread Sealant - 577 and or stake the valves in place. Again some re-builders do not stake or seal the valves in place. they will leak and you will loose fuel pressure.
In this picture there are more shavings. Also the casting ridges are sanded off causing the parts not to seal. The ridges help the rubber diaphragms to seal and allow a little forgiveness if the castings are not exactly flush.
Although the intention was good the fact is, Sanding too much off the casting is not good. This picture shows more shavings stuck in the valves. (stranding me on the highway and costing me an expensive tow). Also notice the valves are not staked. They need to be carefully staked in 3 or 4 equal locations. ( the Pro Shop from the New England area) pushed back after even after seeing these photos. They rebuilt the pump the second time it was worse . I paid the freight. Lesson learned. DO IT YOURSELF!!
When you re-Assemble your pump take your time. When re-assembling the pivot pin assemble the new washer first then using a center punch / nail set hit the pin smartly to mushroom over the pin. Make sure you pre-load the diaphragm before you tighten the 10 screws and don't over-tighten them. Check the castings carefully. If you must re-surface the castings just use some 400 or 320 grit. The rubber diaphragm / gasket will seal. You can paint or clear coat the castings before assembly.
Vapor Lock
These cars are prone to vapor lock. It's not the carburetor. Cool (as in not boiling) fuel fed into a hot carburetor will not continuously boil off. It's usually at or before the fuel pump on the suction side of the fuel system that vapor lock occurs. The pump is unable to create enough vacuum to pull the fuel from the tank. Check your lines from the pump back. A weak/old fuel pump can make the problem worse. An electric pump near the tank so the line is under pressure usually cures vapor lock problems. Another common problem is the bronze tip wears down on the FP push rod. replace it!........Additionally, I installed an aftermarket carburetor insulator gasket set.
Push Rod Two Types
When installing a fuel pump on the 383, 410, 430, 462 CI engines the fuel pump push rod is very very
important. From 1958 through 1962 the fuel pump push rod has a brass tip on the bottom of it that rides against the fuel pump concentric, on the cam shaft side. The fuel pump push rod from 1963 through 1968 ½ was of solid drill stock and the concentric was a two part unit so it could freely rotate and not prematurely wear out the concentric.
The Service Part Number for this period MEL fuel pump eccentric is C0SZ 6287-A if anyone is lucky enough to come across one a parts swap.
1958- up to 01 Jan 1963 Fuel Pump Push rod with Brass Tip; 4.871”-4.881” Id by 2 groves opposite end from bronze tip.
1963-1968½ Fuel Pump Push rod without Brass Tip 4.808”-4.812”
If your 63 has a brass tip replace with the same type. If its all steel use all steel.
- 1958-1962
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MicroGard Fuel Filter - 33036 ; UPC: # 31447074668 ; Style: In-Line ; Height (in): 3-3/8 Inch ; Outside Diameter (in): 1-15/16 Inch ; Outlet Size (in): 1/2-20 Inch
WIX 33036 replacement fuel filters
BALDWIN BF843 Buy from Amazon
CARQUEST 86036
DONALDSON P550457
FLEETGUARD FF155
Fram G8 Buy from Amazon
Fram G8223
HASTINGS GF263
HIFI-FILTER BE155
LUBER-FINER G22076
Ford, Edsel, Lincoln, Mercury and Ford Truck Fuel Pump Interchange List
1952-'55 Lincoln
1948-'53 truck with 239; 1949-'53 Ford and Mercury V-8
1948-'51 truck with 337
1949-'51 Lincoln
1954 Ford, Mercury, truck with 239 or 256 V-8
1955-'64 Ford, Ford truck, 1959-'60 Edsel, 1961-'62 Mercury with six-cylinder
1955-'57 Ford (except Thunderbird), 1955-'56 Mercury with V-8
1955-'61 Thunderbird (except 430 V-8)
1955-'64 truck with V-8 (except 262), up to two-ton
1956-'57 Lincoln, except Continental; 1957 Mercury
1956-'57 Continental
1958 Edsel Ranger and Pacer; 1959-'60 Edsel; 1957-'62 Mercury 312; 1958-'62 Ford, with 292, 352, 390, without air conditioning
1958-'60 Edsel Corsair, Citation; Continental; Lincoln; Mercury; 1960 Thunderbird with 383 or 430
1961-'65 Comet, Falcon, Econoline six-cylinder; 1965 Mustang with 200
1961 Thunderbird with 430 V-8
1961-'63 truck with 262 V-8
1962 Meteor, Fairlane with 221 V-8
1962 Ford Mercury with air conditioning; 1963-'64 Ford, Mercury with 352 or 390 V-8
1962 -'64 Thunderbird
1962 Fairlane, Meteor with 260 V-8
1963-'65 Comet, Mustang, Falcon, Meteor, Fairlane with 260 or 289 (except special) V-8
1964 truck with 262 six-cylinder
1964 truck with 330, 361, 391 V-8
1965 Ford, Mercury with 352 or 390 V-8
1965 Mustang and Fairlane with 289 Special V-8
1963-'65 Ford and Mercury with 427 V-8
1965-'66 Thunderbird with 390 or 428 V-8
1965-'69 truck with six-cylinder
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