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HEADERS

November 10 2008 at 3:14 AM
  (Login LivermoreDave)
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A question for the experienced. Which header has the best fit and is the least trouble to install on a 1968 Mustang w/428 CJ power and C4 transmission?
Hooker 6114 or Doug's D626R.

Thanks,
Dave.

 
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(Login bw_kc)
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Re: HEADERS

November 10 2008, 9:45 AM 

I've only got experience with the Hooker headers. The headers do fit well but can be a challenge to install and they hang LOW. If you go with the Hookers, plan on getting an aftermarket hi-torque starter as they are easier to install and don't heat soak like the stock starters.

Also, if you have power steering you will need to order the power steering drop bracket.

Sorry no experience with Doug's headers.



Werner Bartels
69 R code Mach 1

 
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Howard
(Login hhiibel)
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FPA Tri-Y's

November 10 2008, 11:48 AM 

Search this site for FPA's to find out what others think. The going consensus is FPA's are best fit/clearance and offer the same performance unless you're a strickly ET high cube stroker.

 
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Anonymous
(Login afret)
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Re: HEADERS

November 10 2008, 3:21 PM 

Hooker 6114's fit well. The problem with these headers is that they really dent tubes #1 and #2 to make room for one bolt each on the rear side of the port.

The FPA headers had a few areas of interference. On one block a tube hit the bottom edge of the block on the driver's side. I had to relieve the block a bit but these headers cleared a different block in the car now:

[linked image]

Another area was the upper idler arm bolt. I just used a shorter grade 8 bolt. Some just cut the original bolt or use more washers under the head of the bolt:

[linked image]

[linked image]


One more area that is close is the passenger's side motor mount. It didn't hit in my case but I think others had problems with this:

[linked image]


Not too close on the driver's side mount:

[linked image]


No problems clearing a C4:

[linked image]

[linked image]

If your engine is already installed, just take off the 2 motor mount bolts and jack up the engine so it rotates away from the side you're working on. Turn the wheel so the pitman arm is out of the way on the driver's side and take the idler arm off on the passenger's side. Jack the car up and install from the bottom.

 
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(Login LivermoreDave)
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Re: headers

November 10 2008, 8:22 PM 

Thanks fellas for the replies. And a special thanks for the pictures. I've just removed a set of the Hooker fully adjustable race headers from the car, I've had them a while and their starting to fall apart. I patched and even made a new tube, it's time for new headers. I like the Hooker 6114's although I'm concerned about the two forward tubes being routed in the area of the motor mount instead of under the control arm. What if I section each tube and remove the collector for installation?

Dave.


    
This message has been edited by LivermoreDave on Nov 10, 2008 8:23 PM
This message has been edited by LivermoreDave on Nov 10, 2008 8:22 PM


 
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Anonymous
(Login afret)
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Re: headers

November 10 2008, 10:39 PM 

When I had the 6114 Hookers, I cut the flanges like on the race headers leaving the 2 front tubes together and separating the back 2 tubes and used slip on collectors. Installation was simple. Just jack up the car and install without having to jack up the engine and without having to remove the starter or idler arm.



The Hooker race headers were kinda too low for me on a Mustang so I switched to the 6114's for awhile then went to the FPA since I lowered the car a bit.



If you want to use race headers you might consider REF in Kingman, AZ. These are their 2 - 2 1/8 step headers but they will make whatever you want.



[linked image]





They give a lot more ground clearance than the race Hookers.



[IMG][linked image][/IMG]


Edit due to spelling.


    
This message has been edited by afret on Nov 12, 2008 9:54 PM


 
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(Login LivermoreDave)
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Re: headers

November 11 2008, 3:36 AM 

Those in the picture are a nice looking set of headers! Are those REF's? What you did with the 6114's is exactly what I plan to do. The Hooker race header I removed was the same way you mentioned of the 6114's, relative to the primaries separated and removable collectors. I have thought about separating the two front primaries on each bank with the 6114's. As I removed the race headers I attempted to take notes mentally to some how make the next "header party" a little more fun! Thanks for the pictures. Oh, by the way, are the headers in the picture for sale?

Thanks,
Dave.

 
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Anonymous
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Re: headers

November 11 2008, 7:49 AM 

They're by REF. Not for sale. I'm going to switch to those in a little while. happy.gif

 
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(Login thatdarncat)
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REF headers

November 12 2008, 6:10 PM 

The REF Headers look nice, do you have any contact information for them?
Thanks, Kevin

 
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Anonymous
(Login afret)
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Re: REF headers

November 12 2008, 9:59 PM 

REF phone number: (928) 692-0111

Don't think they have a website. Lot of the stock eliminator guys use these headers.

 
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Buck
(Login 2-Lane-Blacktop)
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Power Steering Drop Bracket

November 11 2008, 9:41 PM 

If you're putting one on, I'd recommend reinforcing it as the lower half of mine broke off from it's mounting portion.

 
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(Login LivermoreDave)
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afret.....

November 12 2008, 8:35 PM 

If you don't mind send me your email address at loosemoney@bellsouth.net.

Thanks,
Dave.

 
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Anonymous
(Login afret)
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Sent. n/m

November 12 2008, 10:02 PM 

.

 
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