When an engine goes into valve float, cam timing is lost. The valves are not under any effective control; which means the likelihood of a valve "kissing" a piston is greatly increased with resulting carnage as 'little' broken parts, hit bigger parts which leads to even more damage.
As I am sure you know, 2 objects cannot share the same space / time concurrently. The dance between valves and piston is controlled by the cam, which in turn is aided by the appropriate springs (of correct materials, configuration, design and strength to offset the weight of the valves when moving at a given (maximum) rpm). You can't just put the biggest springs on the valves you get stuff under a valve cover and expect it to live very long - 'cause you also have to worry about premature wear on the cam lobes). Bottom line, get the proper springs to handle the expected rpm based on cam profile and component configuration and weights. Make the valve train a light as you can afford (lighter valves, lighter springs/retainers/rocker arms carry less momentum are easier to stop/start as they follow the cam). Finally, once the valves go into "float" the next time, generally, it'll happen at a lower rpm...something to do with metal fatigue, harmonics - other stuff I don't have a clue about.
You don't want to mess around at the extreme edge of your combinations limits. Suggestion, change the springs, lower your expectations - or buy and install better, lighter components.
PS: Oh yea ... get a tachometer! 