For the last few years I have wanted to install a teak & holly floor in Changing Channels. This year was the year I finally made it happen.

Below are the details and pictures:

Step 1 Making patterns out of cheap plywood first.




Step 2 laying out the patterns on teak panels.



Step 3 install it in the boat.



Step 4 finish with satin polyurethane and put cabin back together.





Matt O'Donnell
Changing Channels
1967 38' Express

Well done, Matt! It looks so natural and elegant. Where did you get the Teak and Holly ply?
Jerry

I've been aboard this boat, and it was ever so presentable before this was done. Now it's only going to be better. Very nice installation!

Regards,

Paul

VERY NICE JOB MATT !

The pride in ownership on Changing Channels comes through loud and clear.

James

Looks good, I did the same throughout my 42' Commander. All floors except he main salon got the teak and holly treatment in fact they just got a fresh coat of polyurethane this year. Lotta work but they look great, I'll have to dig up more pics of them.
Steve Lendzion
1969 42' Comander
"Bear Z Girl"

The only problem for me, is the fact that Janet saw it too (and she likes it). So many boats.............so little time! And now......another project??? Maybe that new chrome around the helm (also to match Matt's) will distract her??

Regards,

Paul

In September I worked out a deal for my previous boat (a Tollycraft) with good friend to install new Teak & Holly cabin sole in my 36' Sport Cruiser.





Here is the reason I went with oil instead of clearcoat... its easier to repair scratches



My buddy insists I apply 8 coats of oil sanded into the woodgrain. Here goes the first coat (5 more to go as of now)





Glad I did this... I think it adds the WOW factor I was looking for. My next winter project is a new settee, galley, cabinets and teak veneer throughout the salon.

Jim
Seattle
74 36' Sports Cruiser
"Giggity"

....how does that many layers of oil work with the long term life of plywood?

Tom

My friend who installed them manages the shipyard in the biggest port on the west coast and has over 35 years experience restoring vintage wood boats such Lymans and Chris Crafts. He strongly recommends this method especially if the boat is going to be used in wet weather as much as mine is so I am not worried about any issues.

If you have any further information, please share it.
Jim

I was reluctant to mention it, especially when it looks so good. This is where the local experience level is worth it's weight in gold.

I really like the feel of an oiled teak. It represents a prescribed maintenance regime, but it is an easy surface to like, and live with. Refurbishing isn't all that tough, and it can be made to look good again and again. Hope it works for you as good as it looks.

Tom

That looks great. I am considering the same, but maybe I will use the 'fake' teak flooring. Has anyone tried this yet?

Did you build all new panels or use the existing ones?

How do you get the panels up? (I saw the hardware in the fisrst pic but not in the salon)

Thanks!
RE

That sounds cool! Can you fill us in on this method of teak oil application?
As Freddie Prinz used to say: "Looking Good!"

Actually I was planning to document the entire process for a How To article but I lost a HD and many of the pics I had taken. (I will revisit this soon and document as much as possible.)

As far as sanding I just pour out some of the teak oil then sand it into the grain with 400 grit sand paper starting in the v-berth and working backward. The oil will slightly raise the grain and the next sanding will knock this off while spreading the oil out and making sure it gets into every crack. I sand each area about 30 seconds before moving on and the oil will almost disappear with just a slight slight wetness remaining. By the next morning its dry enough to walk on and ready for another dose. My friend says after about 5-6 coats it will get a nice sheen on it... not exactly a satin finish but it should look great and stand up to just about anything. It takes about 2-3 hours to do the entire floor. With such a fine grain paper its not necessary to stay with the grain the entire time but I do my best to run parallel especially when I am almost done with a section.

The teak and holly is glued by squeegying tan 5200 all over the existing panels then placing the cut panels down. Then 2x4s ripped into 2x2s were bowed and propped up against the ceiling with the load spread onto scrap plywood squares placed on the floors. Heavy objects were also placed strategically to insure the floors were down and solid when the glue set up in about 3-4 days. Anyone who has worked with 5200 knows these panels are on there for good now...

The original hatch panels were getting a little beaten up but now with the glue, cabin flooring, and teak trim they are more substantial and solid as a rock. Its a totally different feeling to walk on the floors now... no flex at all.

I bought new hatch handles for all 9 panels but we decided they would be too busy so I just have handles running down the middle. They are installed in the cabin now also.

I will upload some more recent pics this weekend.

Jim

Jim not to be nosey but what kind of $ are we looking at? Your floor is beautiful. I want to get an idea because i need to carpet or do what you have done. Great Job. Regards David

Well I traded 1969 24' Tollycraft and trailer to a good friend of mine for installation of the floors and building a convertible dinette. He worked on the floors for a few hours after work off an on for about 2 months and I really don't know how much $$ to account for that. His experience and tricks of the trade are something I could not pull off myself especially the great way he made templates by stapling together thin strips of wood to form the outside edges of each piece and also the teak trim around all the hatches. The trim is nice and tight to the sole and should protect my hatches for many years.

As far as materials, about $1250 for 9 sheets of teak and holly 1.5 mil face 4x8. at http://www.eastteak.com (I bought a little extra for some mods to the v-berth I will make later next year.)

Lots of 5200 glue... probably $300 worth or so. My friend had extra teak trim strips so no cost there. Also we ripped a few 2x4s into 2x2s to prop against the ceiling to push the floors down while the glue set up. Latches about $120. Sand paper and other incidentals tack on another $100 or so.

I think thats about it... so if you have an extra Tollycraft lying around then I guess you could get the floors done for about $2 grand total

Jim
Seattle