CHRIS CRAFT COMMANDER FORUM ® .......A photo-intensive technical reference file and ongoing newsletter regarding the original fiberglass Chris Craft Commander. Our mission at this not-for-profit non-commercial web site is to "have fun and share information" for your individual personal use. Our main reference feature is the ever expanding MASTER INDEX Files which contain exhaustive photo and technical information on the Chris Craft Commander line (like these 38' Commander brochure scans) , (an awesome collection of Chris Craft 427 tuning and specification information), and a few words about how to use the information in the forum, etc. Be sure to look at the information about the 2009 Chris Craft Commander Rendezvous, second year in a row on Lake Erie!! If you're a Commander fan, this will be an event you won't want to miss.

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Congratulations !!

November 13 2008 at 4:42 AM
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Response to Just signed a contract on a 1973 36' SF

ohh boy, there's a run on the 36 ! Four of em have been bought/sold very recently, and I can see why. For open salt water use or on the big lakes, the solidly built hulls are just the ticket, and their stylish functionality will make you a hit around the marina too. Every time you fire up those big Fords and depart the marina, people are going to stand and watch (and listen).

When you get em, send photos! Take your camera on the cruise from Alabama to New Orleans!

The heat exchanger cooled big blocks have a reputation for overheating, and it's not NECESSARILY a design flaw as much as it is, the system is operating on the margin, and when there is a blockage, or an impeller, or water pump cam, or suction-closed-hose, whatever, they tend to overheat. You'll need to keep an eye on this, and if you see overheating easiest thing is to slow down. Once sorted out, you SHOULD be able to run reliably. After all, if the engines have lasted this long, they've been properly used and cooled.

You can convert the contact points to the popular Pertronix ignition system, but if you do be sure to keep a spare set on board, as they can go bad like any other electronic part. If you run original contact points be sure to have a full set of points and condenser. Whatever you do, be sure to have a pair of the right crab caps on board because you would not believe the difference a good cap can make if you have an old one with carbon tracks. Be sure you use the proper gasket when replacing the cap, because some need it and some don't, and I guess it depends on the brand of cap and rotor, otherwise the top of the rotor can scrape the underside of the cap (been there, done that).

Hope the boat is everything you hope it will be, and more.

regards,

Paul

 
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